joys and sorrows.
Some days really shine and some are really black, in a few short days I have had both.
The black day is so sad I don't know how to write it.
When Yandrongtar came up to Xining to visit from Kokonor he asked me to come back with him the next day. I knew he had some serious problems with his clinic and the land, all to do with the government. So, I got a translator and left the group and drove to Kokonor with him on Sunday. My understanding was (and via various translators) that the government had aquired his land and he needed to buy it back.
So we drove, 3 hours, and arrive at the village finally, with all the sunday tourist traffic. I get out of the car and am confronted by a devasting pile of rubble. The clinic stands empty and will be demolished in the next few days and our hospital that you all helped me to build is already gone.
I can't express how shocked and saddened this made me, even now as I am writing I am trying not to cry any more. But it's much much sadder and more terrible for them.
The bad news keeps coming, one of the young doctors I have met before, with a young family, was injured during the riots in 2008, crushed between two cars. I knew of this but now learn that he will be in a wheelchair for the rest of his life.
The stories of what is happening here are so fantastic they must be true. A very senior PRC party official was driving through the village and decided that the buildings were too ugly for a tourism area. They had to be demolished and re-built 20 meteres back from the original location. In the process the government aquired all the land along that strip and the owners now have to buy it back and build only according to the plans the government have issued. The other stories involve chinese mafia and that is just the start.
It is a very popular area that the Chinese are trying to lock down and cotnrol, and they are not interested in any visible Tibetan presence.
But what does that mean for health care for the nomad people?
The doctor has an idea but I have to think about it, it's a lot more money and a very complicated process. Dr Nida is also concerned with the proposals. Also I am worried that if they do it this time, what is to stop them doing it again.
He was very worried that I would think it was his fault. As if small people like us can do much against this juggernaut.
But I will keep trying. There will be other avenues to help. There is so much here that is worth fighting for.
So are we ready for a good day?
We are in Mahlo now, the grasslands are heaven on earth and at this time of year, when covered in wild flowers and herbs, you can't believe that somewhere so beautiful really exists. When we finished climbing up up up on the long drive from Xining (we went from 2,400 metres above sea level to 3,600. When we go up to Chabdrak it gets to 4,500), and suddenly you emerge on the high plateau, I begged the bus driver to stop so I could get out and just be there for a moment. It was just on sunset and the air was gold and all around me was an amazing persian carpet of flowers.
I love Mahlo. It is a wild west town, tibetan style. The men are so handsome and cowboy, and the women incredibly beautiful. The hospital is growing with a huge new building underway. So getting back here was a good day. In my heart, this is one of the places in the world I am always returning to.
A shining beautiful day yesterday. Dr Nida was born near here, and although he spent the first seven years of his life in a nomad tent, the family home is now here. So his mother invited us all for lunch yesterday. That is all 47 of us.
As we walked towards the house there was a long line of family and friends waiting at the gate to welcome us all one by one. And inside, a feast of Tibetan proportions. They were so happy to have us, and that so many of Dr Nida's students were there. It was generous on so many levels. He has not been back for 3 years and I could understand if they were more protective of the short time they will have together.
There is a small tent on the grass, this is where Dr Nida consults for the many people who come a long way to see him. (As we drove into Mahlo the night before there was a group waiting with katas for his car to drive past.)
He saw patients before coming to the hospital to start teaching, again after lunch and then after dinner. I went back in the late afternoon to help while he rested and had some food.
This was a humbling experience. A young Tibetan girl Tsering Drolma was translating for me, and as we came over to the tent, the long line of people stood and bowed to me. Then it was three extraordinary hours where I think I learnt more about Tibetan medicine than all my reading has taught me over the last five years.
And then the priviledge of working along side Dr Nida when he came back.
Blessed in so many ways, but most especially when I can help someone.
Last bit of good news, the young nomad girl I helped last time with some money for her study is now a doctor and working at the hospital. She hugs me about 100 times an hour and I have had my picture taken with her whole family!
Some days really shine and some are really black, in a few short days I have had both.
The black day is so sad I don't know how to write it.
When Yandrongtar came up to Xining to visit from Kokonor he asked me to come back with him the next day. I knew he had some serious problems with his clinic and the land, all to do with the government. So, I got a translator and left the group and drove to Kokonor with him on Sunday. My understanding was (and via various translators) that the government had aquired his land and he needed to buy it back.
So we drove, 3 hours, and arrive at the village finally, with all the sunday tourist traffic. I get out of the car and am confronted by a devasting pile of rubble. The clinic stands empty and will be demolished in the next few days and our hospital that you all helped me to build is already gone.
I can't express how shocked and saddened this made me, even now as I am writing I am trying not to cry any more. But it's much much sadder and more terrible for them.
The bad news keeps coming, one of the young doctors I have met before, with a young family, was injured during the riots in 2008, crushed between two cars. I knew of this but now learn that he will be in a wheelchair for the rest of his life.
The stories of what is happening here are so fantastic they must be true. A very senior PRC party official was driving through the village and decided that the buildings were too ugly for a tourism area. They had to be demolished and re-built 20 meteres back from the original location. In the process the government aquired all the land along that strip and the owners now have to buy it back and build only according to the plans the government have issued. The other stories involve chinese mafia and that is just the start.
It is a very popular area that the Chinese are trying to lock down and cotnrol, and they are not interested in any visible Tibetan presence.
But what does that mean for health care for the nomad people?
The doctor has an idea but I have to think about it, it's a lot more money and a very complicated process. Dr Nida is also concerned with the proposals. Also I am worried that if they do it this time, what is to stop them doing it again.
He was very worried that I would think it was his fault. As if small people like us can do much against this juggernaut.
But I will keep trying. There will be other avenues to help. There is so much here that is worth fighting for.
So are we ready for a good day?
We are in Mahlo now, the grasslands are heaven on earth and at this time of year, when covered in wild flowers and herbs, you can't believe that somewhere so beautiful really exists. When we finished climbing up up up on the long drive from Xining (we went from 2,400 metres above sea level to 3,600. When we go up to Chabdrak it gets to 4,500), and suddenly you emerge on the high plateau, I begged the bus driver to stop so I could get out and just be there for a moment. It was just on sunset and the air was gold and all around me was an amazing persian carpet of flowers.
I love Mahlo. It is a wild west town, tibetan style. The men are so handsome and cowboy, and the women incredibly beautiful. The hospital is growing with a huge new building underway. So getting back here was a good day. In my heart, this is one of the places in the world I am always returning to.
A shining beautiful day yesterday. Dr Nida was born near here, and although he spent the first seven years of his life in a nomad tent, the family home is now here. So his mother invited us all for lunch yesterday. That is all 47 of us.
As we walked towards the house there was a long line of family and friends waiting at the gate to welcome us all one by one. And inside, a feast of Tibetan proportions. They were so happy to have us, and that so many of Dr Nida's students were there. It was generous on so many levels. He has not been back for 3 years and I could understand if they were more protective of the short time they will have together.
There is a small tent on the grass, this is where Dr Nida consults for the many people who come a long way to see him. (As we drove into Mahlo the night before there was a group waiting with katas for his car to drive past.)
He saw patients before coming to the hospital to start teaching, again after lunch and then after dinner. I went back in the late afternoon to help while he rested and had some food.
This was a humbling experience. A young Tibetan girl Tsering Drolma was translating for me, and as we came over to the tent, the long line of people stood and bowed to me. Then it was three extraordinary hours where I think I learnt more about Tibetan medicine than all my reading has taught me over the last five years.
And then the priviledge of working along side Dr Nida when he came back.
Blessed in so many ways, but most especially when I can help someone.
Last bit of good news, the young nomad girl I helped last time with some money for her study is now a doctor and working at the hospital. She hugs me about 100 times an hour and I have had my picture taken with her whole family!
My thoughts and love go out to you my love. You know that what ever we can do, we will. Difficult is no problem, impossible just takes a little longer...
Take lots of photo's, I might become a contributor to Wiki leaks via a Gmail account very soon.
Love to all
PRS
Posted by: PRS | August 11, 2010 at 02:20 PM
Beautifully written Karen. Sending my love to all. Wishing I was there sharing in the marvel of the place. Keep up the great work. Lots of love.
Posted by: James | August 11, 2010 at 08:25 PM