I feel like I should start from the start again, but that is probably redundant now. We had some issues with local authorities in Mahlo which meant it was a good idea to stay away from the internet cafes. Combined with lack of easy access in Xining, the blogging has been a bit harder this time for sure.
But maybe a bit of a recap of some things and some new stuff, it's all good, and I'm only writing all this down for my own benefit anyway!
I want to re-visit Gonlakha, metaphorically, physically and through words and pictures. It is such a special place.
It's a small monastery, and its community, perched like a layered cake up the side of a very steep hill. Each area is terraced and everything goes up up up. The rinpoche has his little glass sided building atop the monastery but below the dwellings, where he sits as the heart of the place. There are two Gompa's and a large school room style building that was built by Dr Nida and his association. We hope to sponsor a few months of teaching there next year for the local children. The village is about 5 minutes away by motorbike, but apart from that there is nothing else is this valley except the animals, birds and plant life, plus the herds belonging to the local people. It is so deeply peaceful.
We arrived and I was welcomed and given my room. Sonam and the driver departed and there I was, the only english speaking person for miles around. The monk who looked after us on our last visit set me up with a small table in the covered area in front of the gompa for my practice. He showed me where the prostration pads were, they are brocade on the front and rabbit fur underneath. There are deep, smooth grooves in the wood from the many many people who have done their prostrations here before me. It is also about 36 degrees Celsius at least, and as we are at 3000 metres above sea level and I have only been here in Amdo for two days, I am feeling the altitude!
The gompa is well secured with a huge padlock, but I don't take it personally as it is kept locked except for when the monks are there chanting or when they put the offering bowls in every day. This is the small one which is like a tiny jewel box, with hundreds of small Guru Rinpoche statues, porcelain ones and one large statute of Guru Rinpoche, very beautiful in the centre. They seem very good at making the torma offerings here, they are very elaborate and decorative.
From when we arrive until I leave, I am offered tea and food about every two hours! The lady who does all the cooking for whoever is hungry has decided that I do not eat nearly enough. I can't get her to understand that a full stomach is not a good idea before doing 200 prostrations. The amount of food I see her put out daily is astonishing, and everything is from scratch. It doesn't matter who turns up, there is always enough food for all. And chat, and tea, and of course the novelty visitor. She also makes the best tsoma. Mountains of them. Everyone turns up for lunch on those days.
So my day starts with my getting washed and dressed quickly in my room, because you never know who is going to pop in the doorway. Often I would open my eyes from sleep to find someone watching me, and one time, a lady who thought it looked comfortable obviously, lying curled up next to me. It's ok, it's like living in a pack of puppies, always someone to cuddle into you.
Then it's time for kora, with my two kora girls, we walk around the gompa and exchange smiles and mantras. Then its breakfast time with everyone, and my phrase book. I pass on the tsampa because I can't get it without the butter which I don't like when it is aged, and have bread and milk tea. Then I write in my journal, do my bits of washing before heading off to the gompa for the first session of the day. Quite often I have an audience for this, they try and read the english in my prayers, or just stare. Usually I get a huge smile and a thumbs up when they eventually get bored and go away.
Each session takes between one and a half and two hours depending on how long the prostrations take, which means how much resting and gasping goes on.
After that I go and wash my sweaty face and have some tea and a rest before I treat people in my impromptu clinic. This started within an hour of my arrival and it makes me very happy to do it. I think to be here and be such a welcome guest while I do a week of spiritual practices especially meant for those who work in healing means it is especially blessed to be doing this work as well.
However, well equipped I am not! I have incense, I bought up a big box for the monastery, so a few packets are held back to use for moxibustion. I have butter for massage, and I go and find some smooth rocks to heat in the sun, also for massage. Very simple, very pure ku nye indeed. And mantra water of course, which makes Dr Nida roar with laughter when I tell him about this later. Me making mantra waters for the yogis at their monastery. It is funny.
After lunch I go back for my second session and then I have to have a nana nap! I am sure they think I am really lazy and it is impossible to explain about all the things my body is getting used to, so I stop trying. Another thing I am dealing with is a lot of joint pain, the altitude is all I can attribute it to, but whatever, my joints are very inflammed and painful. I try my best to ignore it because this is such a great opportunity and I am so lucky to be here. At sunset, I sit and wait for dinner, which comes after the five o'clock snack, and look at the special hill with the trees (this hill was bare until the death of the first lama, then the trees all came) and watch the eagles playing on the currents and think I am the luckiest person in the world.
I sit with them after we eat to be sociable. I don't mind not understanding what they are talking about, the voices are company and by the end of the week we are even sharing some little jokes and gentle teasing. But I am always ready for my sleeping bag by the time the stars are all out. Drolma who is always first up in the morning is always last to bed, and she will not allow me to help with dishes or cooking at all.
One day, lots of ngakpas arrive and set up a big production run of amulets. I watch this fascinated. One hands me a sheet to fold and starts to show me how. Thrilled I sit down ready to be his best student, but one of the monks comes over and shoos me off. How dare I be a woman and want to do this. Oh well, it's their place. I am nevertheless quite excited just to watch the whole thing. It takes all day and there is much laughing and talking and no doubt tall tibetan tales told. I entertain some young boys who are practicing their writing by showing them my tibetan writing which is much worse than their 7 year old efforts.
The next day most of the monks pack up and depart for the hills where there is to be a big gathering of ngakpas, and the rinpoche will be giving an empowerment, they will be gone for five days. This means sadly I will leave before they return, but I plan to come back before heading home to say goodbye.
Another afternoon, I emerge bleary from my siesta to find 3 Europeans having tea with my monastery family. To be specific, 2 Russians and one from the Ukraine. Yes, students of Dr Nida also who are traveling about a bit before the course starts in Xining. They plan to come back here afterward to also do retreat. This will be good news for Drolma, 3 men to feed, I am a big disappointment in the food department.
By the time my week is up, I feel as though I have lived here for years and can't imagine a different daily routine. When I go to the gompa for my last session the thunder starts to roll up and down the valley, and as soon as I finish the last prayer of dedication, the rain comes. Yuthoks blessing, I think, he must be pleased.
And then before know it, it's time to leave. I have given all my gifts, hugged and been hugged and even the stoics are a bit teary when I get into the taxi. Me? I am howling like a big baby. I am sure there are things I will want to add to this, but I hope you get a feel of what a special time this was in a very amazing place.
gratitude
blessing
contentment
peace
lots of laughter, who needs a shared language when you can smile and laugh together.
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